/* Layout concept: a field journal of photo plates. Full-bleed photographs carry the page,
   text sits in a calm column beside them, and every place is pinned by its coordinates. */
:root {
  --stone: #f4f5f2;      /* limestone page */
  --paper: #ffffff;      /* raised surfaces */
  --ink: #15212b;        /* deep slate text */
  --muted: #5b6770;      /* secondary text */
  --rule: #d9ddd8;       /* hairlines */
  --eagle: #c41e2c;      /* Albanian red, used sparingly */
  --sea: #17677f;        /* Ionian teal for links */
  --caution-bg: #fbf1e3; /* watch-out panels */
  --caution-ink: #6b3f0c;
  --on-photo: #ffffff;
  --shade: rgba(8, 14, 20, 0.62);

  --font-display: "Instrument Serif", "Iowan Old Style", "Palatino Linotype", Georgia, serif;
  --font-body: "Public Sans", "Segoe UI", system-ui, -apple-system, sans-serif;
  --font-mono: "IBM Plex Mono", ui-monospace, "SFMono-Regular", Menlo, monospace;

  --step--1: 0.8125rem;
  --step-0: 1rem;
  --step-1: 1.25rem;
  --step-2: 1.75rem;
  --step-3: clamp(2.25rem, 5vw, 3.25rem);
  --step-4: clamp(3rem, 9vw, 6.5rem);

  --gutter: max(16px, env(safe-area-inset-left, 0px));
  --gutter-r: max(16px, env(safe-area-inset-right, 0px));
  --max: 1180px;
  color-scheme: light;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
  :root:not([data-theme="light"]) {
    --stone: #0e151b; --paper: #161f27; --ink: #e8ecee; --muted: #9aa6ae; --rule: #2a353e;
    --eagle: #ef4a55; --sea: #5cb8d2; --caution-bg: #2b2215; --caution-ink: #f0c98f;
    --shade: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.66);
    color-scheme: dark;
  }
}
:root[data-theme="dark"] {
  --stone: #0e151b; --paper: #161f27; --ink: #e8ecee; --muted: #9aa6ae; --rule: #2a353e;
  --eagle: #ef4a55; --sea: #5cb8d2; --caution-bg: #2b2215; --caution-ink: #f0c98f;
  --shade: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.66);
  color-scheme: dark;
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  background: var(--stone);
  color: var(--ink);
  font: 400 var(--step-0)/1.6 var(--font-body);
}
img { max-width: 100%; display: block; }
a { color: var(--sea); text-underline-offset: 3px; }
a:focus-visible, button:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--sea); outline-offset: 3px; border-radius: 4px; }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--font-display); font-weight: 400; line-height: 1.05; text-wrap: balance; margin: 0; }
p { margin: 0; }
.wrap { max-width: var(--max); margin: 0 auto; padding-left: var(--gutter); padding-right: var(--gutter-r); }
.eyebrow {
  font: 600 var(--step--1)/1.2 var(--font-body);
  letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--eagle);
}
.coords { font-family: var(--font-mono); font-size: 0.75rem; letter-spacing: 0.02em; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }

/* Header */
.site-header {
  position: absolute; inset: 0 0 auto; z-index: 20;
  padding-top: env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px);
}
.site-header.solid { position: sticky; top: 0; background: var(--stone); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.site-header .wrap { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; padding-block: 18px; }
.wordmark {
  font: 400 2rem/1 var(--font-display); color: var(--on-photo); text-decoration: none;
  display: inline-flex; align-items: baseline; gap: 10px;
}
.wordmark small { font: 500 0.6875rem/1 var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; opacity: 0.85; }
.site-nav { display: flex; gap: 20px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.site-nav a { color: var(--on-photo); text-decoration: none; font-weight: 600; font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.site-nav a[aria-current="page"] { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-color: var(--eagle); text-decoration-thickness: 2px; }
.site-header.solid .wordmark, .site-header.solid .site-nav a { color: var(--ink); }

/* Photo plates */
.plate { margin: 0; position: relative; overflow: hidden; background: linear-gradient(135deg, #1d4a5a, #2c3d2f); }
.plate img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform 0.8s ease; }
.plate.missing img { display: none; }
.credit {
  position: absolute; right: 8px; bottom: 6px; max-width: calc(100% - 16px);
  font: 400 0.6875rem/1.3 var(--font-body); color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.82);
  text-shadow: 0 1px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.7); text-align: right; z-index: 3;
}
.hero-split .plate:first-child .credit { left: 8px; right: auto; text-align: left; }
.credit a { color: inherit; }

/* Home hero: sea on one side, mountains on the other */
.hero-split { position: relative; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; height: clamp(480px, 82vh, 760px); background: #13242c; }
.hero-split .plate { height: 100%; }
.hero-split .plate:first-child { clip-path: polygon(0 0, 100% 0, 88% 100%, 0 100%); margin-right: -12%; }
.hero-split::after {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; pointer-events: none;
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0.55) 0%, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0.05) 35%, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0.15) 55%, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0.78) 100%);
}
.hero-copy { position: absolute; inset: auto 0 0; z-index: 2; color: var(--on-photo); padding-bottom: clamp(40px, 8vh, 80px); }
.hero-copy h1 { font-size: var(--step-4); max-width: 13ch; }
.hero-copy h1 em { font-style: italic; color: #ffd9d4; }
.hero-copy p { max-width: 46ch; margin-top: 16px; font-size: var(--step-1); line-height: 1.45; opacity: 0.94; }
.hero-labels { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; margin-top: 28px; gap: 16px; }
.hero-labels span { color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.85); }

/* Filters and grid */
.section { padding-block: clamp(48px, 8vw, 96px); }
.section-head { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: end; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px 32px; margin-bottom: 28px; }
.section-head h2 { font-size: var(--step-3); }
.section-head p { color: var(--muted); max-width: 52ch; }
.chips { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; margin-bottom: 28px; }
.chip {
  font: 600 0.875rem/1 var(--font-body); color: var(--ink); background: transparent;
  border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 999px; padding: 10px 16px; cursor: pointer;
}
.chip:hover { border-color: var(--ink); }
.chip[aria-pressed="true"] { background: var(--ink); color: var(--stone); border-color: var(--ink); }

.grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 320px), 1fr)); gap: 28px 24px; }
.card { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 12px; color: inherit; text-decoration: none; min-width: 0; }
.card .plate { aspect-ratio: 4 / 5; border-radius: 2px; max-width: 100%; }
.card:hover .plate img { transform: scale(1.04); }
.card .meta { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; align-items: baseline; gap: 12px; color: var(--muted); }
.card h3 { font-size: var(--step-2); }
.card p { color: var(--muted); }
.empty { color: var(--muted); padding: 24px 0; }

/* Before-you-go band */
.band { background: var(--ink); color: var(--stone); }
.band .eyebrow { color: #ff8a8f; }
.band h2 { font-size: var(--step-3); margin-top: 8px; }
.tips { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(100%, 240px), 1fr)); gap: 32px; margin-top: 36px; }
.tips h3 { font: 600 var(--step-1)/1.3 var(--font-body); margin-bottom: 8px; }
.tips p { opacity: 0.82; }
.band a.more { color: var(--stone); font-weight: 600; display: inline-block; margin-top: 36px; }

/* Place page */
.place-hero { height: clamp(440px, 74vh, 720px); }
.place-hero::after {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; pointer-events: none;
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0.5) 0%, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0) 30%, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0.8) 100%);
}
.place-hero .hero-copy h1 { font-size: var(--step-4); max-width: 14ch; }
.place-hero .eyebrow { color: #ffb3b6; }
.facts { border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); background: var(--paper); }
.facts dl { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(100%, 200px), 1fr)); gap: 20px 32px; margin: 0; padding-block: 24px; }
.facts dt { font: 600 0.6875rem/1.2 var(--font-body); letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: 6px; }
.facts dd { margin: 0; font-weight: 500; }

.place-body { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) 320px; gap: 56px; padding-block: 56px; }
.prose { min-width: 0; display: grid; gap: 44px; }
.prose .lede p { font-size: var(--step-1); line-height: 1.55; max-width: 62ch; }
.prose .lede p + p { margin-top: 18px; font-size: var(--step-0); color: var(--muted); }
.prose h2 { font-size: var(--step-2); margin-bottom: 16px; }
.list { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 12px; max-width: 64ch; }
.list li { position: relative; padding-left: 24px; }
.list li::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; top: 0.62em; width: 10px; height: 2px; background: var(--eagle); }
.steps li::before { width: 8px; height: 8px; border-radius: 50%; top: 0.5em; background: var(--sea); }
.caution { background: var(--caution-bg); color: var(--caution-ink); padding: 24px; border-radius: 4px; }
.caution h2 { color: var(--caution-ink); }
.caution .list li::before { background: var(--caution-ink); }

.aside { min-width: 0; }
.book { position: sticky; top: calc(88px + env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px)); background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 4px; padding: 24px; display: grid; gap: 14px; }
.book h2 { font-size: var(--step-2); }
.book p { color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.btn {
  display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 12px;
  font: 600 0.9375rem/1.2 var(--font-body); text-decoration: none;
  padding: 14px 16px; border-radius: 4px; border: 1px solid var(--ink); color: var(--ink);
}
.btn.primary { background: var(--eagle); border-color: var(--eagle); color: #fff; }
.btn:hover { filter: brightness(1.08); }
.btn span:last-child { font-weight: 400; opacity: 0.8; white-space: nowrap; }
.fineprint { font-size: 0.75rem !important; }

.gallery { display: grid; gap: 12px; }
.gallery figure { margin: 0; }
.gallery .plate { aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; max-width: 100%; }

.pager { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); padding-block: 28px; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.pager a { text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); display: grid; gap: 4px; }
.pager a:last-child { text-align: right; margin-left: auto; }
.pager strong { font: 400 var(--step-2)/1.1 var(--font-display); }

/* Essentials page */
.page-intro { padding-block: 48px 8px; }
.page-intro h1 { font-size: var(--step-4); }
.page-intro p { font-size: var(--step-1); max-width: 56ch; margin-top: 16px; color: var(--muted); }
.ess { padding-block: 40px; border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); display: grid; grid-template-columns: 260px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 32px; }
.ess-title { display: flex; gap: 12px; align-items: center; align-self: start; }
.ess-title svg { width: 28px; height: 28px; color: var(--eagle); flex: none; }
.ess-title h2 { font-size: var(--step-2); }
.ess-items { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(100%, 260px), 1fr)); gap: 24px 32px; }
.ess-items h3 { font: 600 1.0625rem/1.35 var(--font-body); margin-bottom: 6px; }
.ess-items p { color: var(--muted); }
.jump { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; margin-top: 28px; }

/* Footer */
.site-footer { border-top: 1px solid var(--rule); color: var(--muted); font-size: 0.875rem; }
.site-footer .wrap { padding-block: 40px; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(100%, 260px), 1fr)); gap: 24px 40px; }
.site-footer strong { color: var(--ink); font: 400 1.5rem/1 var(--font-display); display: block; margin-bottom: 8px; }

@media (max-width: 820px) {
  .place-body { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 40px; padding-block: 40px; }
  .book { position: static; }
  .ess { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 20px; }
}
@media (max-width: 560px) {
  .hero-split .plate:first-child { clip-path: polygon(0 0, 100% 0, 80% 100%, 0 100%); margin-right: -20%; }
  .site-nav { gap: 14px; }
  .wordmark small { display: none; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  .plate img { transition: none; }
  .card:hover .plate img { transform: none; }
}

/* Itineraries: day menu on the left, days on the right */
.trip-hero { height: clamp(380px, 60vh, 560px); }
.trip-hero::after {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; pointer-events: none;
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0.5) 0%, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0) 30%, rgba(8, 14, 20, 0.82) 100%);
}
.trip-hero .eyebrow { color: #ffb3b6; }
.trip-hero .hero-copy h1 { font-size: var(--step-4); max-width: 14ch; }
.trip-tabs { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; margin-top: 24px; }
.trip-tabs a {
  font: 600 0.875rem/1 var(--font-body); color: #fff; text-decoration: none;
  border: 1px solid rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.55); border-radius: 999px; padding: 10px 16px;
}
.trip-tabs a[aria-current="page"] { background: #fff; color: #15212b; border-color: #fff; }

.trip-body { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 240px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 56px; padding-block: 56px; }
.day-nav { position: sticky; top: calc(24px + env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px)); align-self: start; }
.day-nav .eyebrow { margin-bottom: 14px; }
.day-nav ol { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 2px; border-left: 1px solid var(--rule); }
.day-nav a {
  display: grid; gap: 2px; padding: 10px 0 10px 16px; margin-left: -1px;
  border-left: 2px solid transparent; color: var(--muted); text-decoration: none; font-size: 0.9375rem; line-height: 1.35;
}
.day-nav a strong { font: 500 0.6875rem/1.2 var(--font-mono); letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; }
.day-nav a:hover { color: var(--ink); }
.day-nav a[aria-current="true"] { color: var(--ink); border-left-color: var(--eagle); }
.day-nav .other { margin-top: 24px; font-size: 0.875rem; }

.days { display: grid; gap: 64px; min-width: 0; }
.trip-lede { font-size: var(--step-1); line-height: 1.55; max-width: 62ch; }
.day { display: grid; gap: 18px; scroll-margin-top: 24px; }
.day-head { display: grid; gap: 6px; }
.day-head h2 { font-size: var(--step-3); }
.day-travel { color: var(--muted); }
.day .plate { aspect-ratio: 16 / 7; max-width: 100%; border-radius: 2px; }
.dayparts { display: grid; gap: 14px; margin: 0; max-width: 66ch; }
.dayparts div { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 110px minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 16px; }
.dayparts dt { font: 600 0.6875rem/1.9 var(--font-body); letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); }
.dayparts dd { margin: 0; }
.day-tip { background: var(--caution-bg); color: var(--caution-ink); padding: 14px 18px; border-radius: 4px; max-width: 66ch; }
.day-tip strong { font-weight: 600; }
.day-links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 10px; }
.day-links .btn { display: inline-flex; padding: 10px 14px; font-size: 0.875rem; }

.teaser { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(100%, 420px), 1fr)); gap: 32px 24px; }
.teaser .card .plate { aspect-ratio: 16 / 10; }

@media (max-width: 820px) {
  .trip-body { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); gap: 24px; padding-block: 0 40px; }
  .day-nav {
    top: env(safe-area-inset-top, 0px); z-index: 10; background: var(--stone);
    border-bottom: 1px solid var(--rule); padding-block: 10px;
    margin-left: calc(-1 * var(--gutter)); margin-right: calc(-1 * var(--gutter-r));
    padding-left: var(--gutter); padding-right: var(--gutter-r);
  }
  .day-nav .eyebrow, .day-nav .other { display: none; }
  .day-nav ol { display: flex; gap: 8px; overflow-x: auto; border-left: 0; scrollbar-width: none; }
  .day-nav li { flex: none; }
  .day-nav a { display: block; border: 1px solid var(--rule); border-radius: 999px; padding: 8px 14px; margin: 0; white-space: nowrap; }
  .day-nav a span { display: none; }
  .day-nav a[aria-current="true"] { background: var(--ink); color: var(--stone); border-color: var(--ink); }
  .day { scroll-margin-top: 72px; }
  .dayparts div { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 2px; }
}
.day-nav .other-list { list-style: none; margin: 8px 0 0; padding: 0; display: grid; gap: 6px; font-size: 0.875rem; }
@media (max-width: 820px) { .day-nav .other-list { display: none; } }
[hidden] { display: none !important; }
.tours { display: grid; gap: 14px; }
.tours h2 { margin-bottom: 0; }
.tours-widget { min-height: 280px; }
.tours .fineprint { color: var(--muted); }